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Palstar R30A

 

Palstar is an American producer of amateur radio equipment, such as antenna tuners, amplifiers, active antennas and shortwave receivers.  At the same time when Lowe, the well-known company with its excellent shortwave receivers, discontinued its production, the Palstar R30 appeared on the market.  The idea of operation of this receiver was the same as the Lowe receivers: Spartan. Few knobs and few functions on the one hand, very good reception quality on the other.  For a short time, Lowe sold Palstar radios under its own name. (cf. Lowe HF-350). The Palstar was in the same league as the HF-225.  The HF-225 sounded better, but the R30 had a better strong signal handling capability. Over the years, the R30 was optimized and was sold as R30C or R30CC.  The 'C' means that Collins IF-filters were used, so the 'CC' model had two Collins filters.  The R30 was very practical because it could also be used as a mobile receiver using 10 AA batteries. Inserting the batteries was not as easy, however. The R30 had to be opened, which over a longer period of time can lead to damage of the screws and the case.

Around 2008, the Palstar R30A appeared on the market.  The radio had undergone a slight change of design and the electronics had been altered a bit. But basically, the basic components had stayed the same and the tried and tested circuit concept was kept. Again, high-quality 5.5 kHz and 2.5kHz Collins IF-filters were used. The display lighting can be switched off to save power when the radio is used as a portable.  Unfortunately though, this good idea was not thought through to the end because the S-meter, which requires a lot more power, cannot be turned off. An excellent feature of the R30 is the 455kHz output on the back of the radio which makes it possible to connect the well-known and expensive Sherwood SE-3 synchronous detector and other accessories.

Basic data:
-- Frequency range: 100kHz - 30MHz
-- Modes: AM, LSB, USB
-- Band widths: 2.5kHz and 5.5kHz (mechanical Collins filters)
-- Tuning steps: SSB 20Hz to 100Hz SSB    100Hz to 500 Hz AM
-- 100kHz steps using the push button
-- AGC: Fast and Slow
-- 10dB attenuator
-- analogue, calibrated S-meter, illuminated
-- 100 memories selectable with the tuning knob or the +/- push buttons
--cbattery operation possible
-- 455 kHz IF-jack
-- Very good large signal handling capability (IP3+15dBm)

The R30A was compared to the ICOM IC-R75 because it is in the same price range.

In the long wave and medium wave range it is noticeably more sensitive than the IC-R75 and has a better selectivity in AM due to the excellent Collins filters and the crisper audio. On shortwave, the R30A is on par with the IC-R75. The good AGC is another asset.

The disadvantages of the R30A become noticeable when the frequency is interfered with. Only ECSS operation can cancel out nearby-channel interferences.  The IC-R75 has some features to cope with these problems, which the R30A does not offer. The R30A has no passband tuning or notch etc. Using my BigLoop, reception with the R30A was without any problems.  The radio could handle the occasionally high levels of S9+40dBm without any troubles. I couldn't notice any large signal interferences. Up to the 10m-band, the radio's performance was as good as the ICOM’s.  Regarding SSB reception, the R30A had to shed some feathers. The smallest tuning step is 20Hz, which is too coarse for digital modes. The smallest tuning step of the IC-R75 is 1 Hz. The intelligibility of both radios is the same, which shows that the Palstar R30A was made for speech signals.  Sensitivity decreased somewhat with higher frequencies. In the 10m band, the IC-R75 was clearly more sensitive due to its selectable pre-amplifier. Unfortunately, the headphone jack does not work in stereo, so an adapter had to be used every time.

The mechanical stability is good.  The case is powder-coated and can withstand smaller hits. If you want to use the good internal speaker of the radio,  you should not put the volume up too high, because then the case will start to clatter which seems to be typical of American-made receivers. Unfortunately, only a few receivers were produced. The Palstar R30A is one of them.  Because of its underlying philosophy, the radio is easy to operate but offers no signal processing. To have the same features of the IC-R75 you would have to use audio filters, e.g., Timewave DSP 59+. Taking all this into account, you come to the question of the radio's price tag. Directly from the producer, the R30A was 895.00 $. Today, this is a hefty price for such a simple radio. But it does have good receiving qualities.

Hint:
When buying a used Palstar R30, R30C, R30CC or R30A, you should make sure that the tuning coder behind the tuning knob is working normally.  With used radios, the tuning coder is often defect. If this is the case, the frequency cannot be tuned correctly, jumps from frequency to frequency or cannot be tuned at all. This so called rotary encoder costs approx. 30$ at Palstar.

Written at 23.02.2015

 

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Repair update Palstar R30A

Even in the age of Software Defined Radio (SDR), the Palstar R30A remains a sought-after shortwave receiver. Its excellent reception characteristics and ease of use make it a valuable alternative to today's overly complex software receivers. The Palstar R30A was released around 2008 and is now almost 20 years old. The earlier models R30, R30C, R30CC, and Lowe HF-350 differ only slightly from one another.

What all these receivers had in common was the wobbly and unreliable VFO encoder, also known as a rotary encoder. Depending on usage, these mechanical encoders quickly wore out and caused problems with frequency tuning. The encoder often jammed, causing frequency jumps during tuning. Without a service manual and parts list, it was, of course, very difficult to determine which type of encoder was behind the tuning knob. After contacting the manufacturer, they only offered a replacement part. At €30 plus shipping, that's a considerable sum. And all for an encoder that costs less than €5 on the open market.

Some time ago, I repaired a Lowe HF-150, which also had a problem with its VFO encoder. Since finding an original encoder for the HF-150 was hopeless, I started looking for a suitable replacement. Mechanical encoders for such old devices are practically impossible to find. That left only optical encoders. I found what I was looking for with the brand "Nidec." This manufacturer offers an optical encoder that is identical in construction to the "Copal" encoders. These were used in JRC receivers and are very high quality. This encoder should also work for the Palstar R30A. However, the encoder doesn't have a push-button function for switching the tuning step size. This function had to be outsourced!

Disclaimer: This content is for informational purposes only. Implementation is at your own risk. No liability is assumed for any property damage or personal injury. This information is not exhaustive.

Anyone who can handle a soldering iron and isn't afraid to drill into the receiver's casing should be able to complete this task without any problems.

This repair/modification is intended for the R30A, but can also be applied to the R30, R30C, R30CC, and Lowe HF-350 models. The electrical connection of the encoder is the same for all models. Hardware modifications may be necessary!

Parts List:

Nidec Optical Encoder RES20B-25-201-1
Available from Mouser, DigiKey, etc.

Button DTS-65K-V
Available from Mouser, DigiKey, etc.

Standoffs 5mm x m3
Available from Reichelt, Conrad, etc.

Nuts M3
Available from Reichelt, Conrad, etc.

1. Remove old encoder / install new encoder
-- Unscrew the housing cover, carefully disconnect the speaker connector at the rear left. Note its position. Set the cover aside.
-- Unscrew the encoder knob using a 2.5mm Allen key and set it aside.
-- Loosen and remove the retaining nut on the front of the encoder. This may be needed for reinstalling the new encoder.
-- Desolder the small circuit board from the 4 pins of the encoder. Clean the 4 pins of any solder residue.
-- Take the new Nidec optical encoder and screw it to the front panel. Tighten securely, but don't overtighten!

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2. Electrical Connection of the New Encoder
-- Connect the red wire to a 5V DC power supply. Connection location: voltage regulator on the back of the receiver. See image.
-- Before soldering the red wire, check the voltage at the right, red-marked pin. With the device switched on, 5V must be present there.
-- Be careful when soldering. Space is very limited!
-- Route the red wire to the front of the new encoder and solder it to the red wire of the encoder. Slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over it beforehand.
-- Once the wire is soldered, slide the heat-shrink tubing over the solder joint and shrink it.
-- Solder the white wire of the new encoder to the top pin. Slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over it beforehand and shrink it after soldering.
-- Solder the green wire of the new encoder to the second pin from the top. First, slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire and shrink it after soldering.
-- Solder the black wire of the new encoder to the bottom pin. First, slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire and shrink it after soldering.
 

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3. Tuning Step Switch (Pushbutton)
Because the new optical encoder does not have a push-button function to switch the tuning steps, this function must be implemented externally.
-- Cut a piece of perforated circuit board to size.
-- Drill two 3mm holes at each end.
-- Place the pushbutton in the center of the perforated circuit board and solder it from the opposite side. Simultaneously solder two wires to the pushbutton (black and white).
-- Test the pushbutton function with a continuity tester. When the pushbutton is pressed, it must short-circuit. Otherwise, one wire needs to be resoldered.
-- Attach the standoffs to the drilled holes and secure them with the locknut.
-- Precisely measure the distances between the standoffs and the center pushbutton and transfer these measurements to the underside of the receiver using a thin pen.
-- Drill three 4mm holes on the underside of the receiver, ideally below the tuning knob.
-- Deburr the holes.
-- Blow out the device and make sure no shavings remain inside.
-- Depending on the type of screws available, the two outer holes may need to be countersunk.
-- Align the small perforated circuit board and screw it in place from the outside. Ensure the button moves freely and doesn't rub against anything.
-- Solder the white wire to the remaining free pin. Slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over it beforehand and shrink it after soldering.
-- Solder the black wire to any ground point.
-- Pressing the button toggles the tuning steps. If the button is pressed for more than two seconds, "LOCDIS" will be displayed. This locks some of the controls. Pressing and holding the button again returns it to normal operation.

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4. Tuning Step Switch without Pushbutton
The Palstar R30A has a backlight switch for the display that can be used for the tuning step function. Because this switch is located on the back of the unit, it is inconvenient to have to constantly reach behind the unit to change the tuning steps.
-- Connect the free pin (second from the bottom) with a white wire to the right front contact of the switch. Marked in red.
-- Connect the ground wire with a black wire to the right middle contact of the switch. Marked in red.
-- The tuning steps can be toggled by switching the switch on and off. If you hold the switch in the "off" position for more than two seconds, "LOCDIS" will be displayed. This locks some of the functions. Switching the switch again and holding it in the "off" position returns it to normal operation.


 

5. Changing the Antenna Connector to BNC

The PL/SO239 antenna connector on all Palstar RX models has been a source of complaint since the very first shipment. This connector was simply too short! Standard-length PL connectors couldn't be tightened securely because the locking nut almost always interfered with the end of the connector. The resulting poor contact usually manifested as weak and noisy reception.

By switching to a BNC connector, this problem is a thing of the past.

Parts List:
BNC connector with 4-hole flange
4 x M3x8mm screws with corresponding nuts
Solder lug with 3mm hole

Procedure:
-- Desolder both wires and remove the old PL/SO239 connector.
-- Position the new BNC connector in the center, ensuring that the markings on the back are not covered.
-- Mark and center-punch the holes.
-- Drill four 3.5mm holes and deburr them.
-- Blow out the device, ensuring no shavings remain inside.
-- Solder the lug to the ground connection.
-- Screw on the new BNC connector and tighten it securely. Don't forget to tighten the lug as well.
-- Solder the antenna input wire to the BNC connector.

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Conclusion:
With this encoder, tuning the R30A is silky smooth; there's no wobble when turning the tuning knob. It will likely outlast the R30A. The selected pulse rate of the encoder is also a perfect match.
Highly recommended!

Changing the antenna connector to a BNC connector is also worthwhile. Loose connections will be a thing of the past.

gepostet: 4.4.2026

 

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