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Palstar R30A
Palstar is an American producer
of amateur radio equipment, such as antenna tuners,
amplifiers, active antennas and shortwave
receivers. At the same time when Lowe, the
well-known company with its excellent shortwave
receivers, discontinued its production, the Palstar
R30 appeared on the market. The idea of operation
of this receiver was the same as the Lowe receivers:
Spartan. Few knobs and few functions on the one
hand, very good reception quality on the other. For
a short time, Lowe sold Palstar radios under its own
name. (cf. Lowe HF-350). The Palstar was in the same
league as the HF-225. The HF-225 sounded better,
but the R30 had a better strong signal handling
capability. Over the years, the R30 was optimized
and was sold as R30C or R30CC. The 'C' means that
Collins IF-filters were used, so the 'CC' model had
two Collins filters. The R30 was very practical
because it could also be used as a mobile receiver
using 10 AA batteries. Inserting the batteries was
not as easy, however. The R30 had to be opened,
which over a longer period of time can lead to
damage of the screws and the case.
Around 2008, the Palstar R30A
appeared on the market. The radio had undergone a
slight change of design and the electronics had been
altered a bit. But basically, the basic components
had stayed the same and the tried and tested circuit
concept was kept. Again, high-quality 5.5 kHz and
2.5kHz Collins IF-filters were used. The display
lighting can be switched off to save power when the
radio is used as a portable. Unfortunately though,
this good idea was not thought through to the end
because the S-meter, which requires a lot more
power, cannot be turned off. An excellent feature of
the R30 is the 455kHz output on the back of the
radio which makes it possible to connect the
well-known and expensive Sherwood SE-3 synchronous
detector and other accessories.
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Basic data:
-- Frequency range: 100kHz - 30MHz
-- Modes: AM, LSB, USB
-- Band widths: 2.5kHz and 5.5kHz (mechanical
Collins filters)
-- Tuning steps: SSB 20Hz to 100Hz SSB
100Hz to 500 Hz AM
-- 100kHz steps using the push button
-- AGC: Fast and Slow
-- 10dB attenuator
-- analogue, calibrated S-meter, illuminated
-- 100 memories selectable with the tuning knob or the +/- push
buttons
--cbattery operation possible
-- 455 kHz IF-jack
-- Very good large signal handling capability
(IP3+15dBm)
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The
R30A was compared to the ICOM IC-R75 because it is in the same price
range.
In
the long wave and medium wave range it is noticeably more sensitive
than the IC-R75 and has a better selectivity in AM due to the
excellent Collins filters and the crisper audio. On shortwave, the
R30A is on par with the IC-R75. The good AGC is another asset.
The
disadvantages of the R30A become noticeable when the frequency is
interfered with. Only ECSS operation can cancel out nearby-channel
interferences. The IC-R75 has some features to cope with these
problems, which the R30A does not offer. The R30A has no passband
tuning or notch etc. Using my BigLoop, reception with the R30A was
without any problems. The radio could handle the occasionally high
levels of S9+40dBm without any troubles. I couldn't notice any large
signal interferences. Up to the 10m-band, the radio's performance
was as good as the ICOM’s. Regarding SSB reception, the R30A had to
shed some feathers. The smallest tuning step is 20Hz, which is too
coarse for digital modes. The smallest tuning step of the IC-R75 is
1 Hz. The intelligibility of both radios is the same, which shows
that the Palstar R30A was made for speech signals. Sensitivity
decreased somewhat with higher frequencies. In the 10m band, the
IC-R75 was clearly more sensitive due to its selectable
pre-amplifier. Unfortunately, the headphone jack does not work in
stereo, so an adapter had to be used every time.
The
mechanical stability is good. The case is powder-coated and can
withstand smaller hits. If you want to use the good internal speaker
of the radio, you should not put the volume up too high, because
then the case will start to clatter which seems to be typical of
American-made receivers. Unfortunately, only a few receivers were
produced. The Palstar R30A is one of them. Because of its
underlying philosophy, the radio is easy to operate but offers no
signal processing. To have the same features of the IC-R75 you would
have to use audio filters, e.g., Timewave DSP 59+. Taking all this
into account, you come to the question of the radio's price tag.
Directly from the producer, the R30A was 895.00 $. Today, this is a
hefty price for such a simple radio. But it does have good receiving
qualities.
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Hint:
When buying a used Palstar R30, R30C,
R30CC or R30A, you should make sure that the tuning
coder behind the tuning knob is working normally. With
used radios, the tuning coder is often defect. If this
is the case, the frequency cannot be tuned correctly,
jumps from frequency to frequency or cannot be tuned at
all. This so called rotary encoder costs approx. 30$ at
Palstar.
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Written at 23.02.2015
Repair update Palstar R30A
Even in the age
of Software Defined Radio (SDR), the Palstar R30A remains a
sought-after shortwave receiver. Its excellent reception
characteristics and ease of use make it a valuable alternative to
today's overly complex software receivers. The Palstar R30A was
released around 2008 and is now almost 20 years old. The earlier
models R30, R30C, R30CC, and Lowe HF-350 differ only slightly from
one another.
What all these receivers had in common was the wobbly and unreliable
VFO encoder, also known as a rotary encoder. Depending on usage,
these mechanical encoders quickly wore out and caused problems with
frequency tuning. The encoder often jammed, causing frequency jumps
during tuning. Without a service manual and parts list, it was, of
course, very difficult to determine which type of encoder was behind
the tuning knob. After contacting the manufacturer, they only
offered a replacement part. At €30 plus shipping, that's a
considerable sum. And all for an encoder that costs less than €5 on
the open market.
Some time ago, I repaired a Lowe HF-150, which also had a problem
with its VFO encoder. Since finding an original encoder for the
HF-150 was hopeless, I started looking for a suitable replacement.
Mechanical encoders for such old devices are practically impossible
to find. That left only optical encoders. I found what I was looking
for with the brand "Nidec." This manufacturer offers an optical
encoder that is identical in construction to the "Copal" encoders.
These were used in JRC receivers and are very high quality. This
encoder should also work for the Palstar R30A. However, the encoder
doesn't have a push-button function for switching the tuning step
size. This function had to be outsourced!
Disclaimer: This
content is for informational purposes only. Implementation is at
your own risk. No liability is assumed for any property damage or
personal injury. This information is not exhaustive.
Anyone who can handle a soldering iron and isn't afraid to drill
into the receiver's casing should be able to complete this task
without any problems.
This repair/modification is intended for the R30A,
but can also be applied to the R30, R30C, R30CC, and Lowe HF-350
models. The electrical connection of the encoder is the same for all
models. Hardware modifications may be necessary!
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Parts List:
Nidec Optical Encoder RES20B-25-201-1
Available from Mouser, DigiKey, etc.
Button DTS-65K-V
Available from Mouser, DigiKey, etc.
Standoffs 5mm x m3
Available from Reichelt, Conrad, etc.
Nuts M3
Available from Reichelt, Conrad, etc.
1. Remove old encoder / install new encoder
-- Unscrew the housing cover, carefully disconnect the speaker
connector at the rear left. Note its position. Set the cover
aside.
-- Unscrew the encoder knob using a 2.5mm Allen key and set it
aside.
-- Loosen and remove the retaining nut on the front of the
encoder. This may be needed for reinstalling the new encoder.
-- Desolder the small circuit board from the 4 pins of the
encoder. Clean the 4 pins of any solder residue.
-- Take the new Nidec optical encoder and screw it to the front
panel. Tighten securely, but don't overtighten!
2. Electrical Connection of the New Encoder
-- Connect the red wire to a 5V DC power supply. Connection location:
voltage regulator on the back of the receiver. See image.
-- Before soldering the red wire, check the voltage at the right,
red-marked pin. With the device switched on, 5V must be present
there.
-- Be careful when soldering. Space is very limited!
-- Route the red wire to the front of the new encoder and solder it
to the red wire of the encoder. Slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing
over it beforehand.
-- Once the wire is soldered, slide the heat-shrink tubing over the
solder joint and shrink it.
-- Solder the white wire of the new encoder to the top pin. Slide a
piece of heat-shrink tubing over it beforehand and shrink it after
soldering.
-- Solder the green wire of the new encoder to the second pin from
the top. First, slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire
and shrink it after soldering.
-- Solder the black wire of the new encoder to the bottom pin.
First, slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the wire and shrink
it after soldering.
3.
Tuning Step Switch (Pushbutton)
Because the new optical encoder does not have a push-button function
to switch the tuning steps, this function must be implemented
externally.
-- Cut a piece of perforated circuit board to size.
-- Drill two 3mm holes at each end.
-- Place the pushbutton in the center of the perforated circuit
board and solder it from the opposite side. Simultaneously solder
two wires to the pushbutton (black and white).
-- Test the pushbutton function with a continuity tester. When the
pushbutton is pressed, it must short-circuit. Otherwise, one wire
needs to be resoldered.
-- Attach the standoffs to the drilled holes and secure them with
the locknut.
-- Precisely measure the distances between the standoffs and the
center pushbutton and transfer these measurements to the underside
of the receiver using a thin pen.
-- Drill three 4mm holes on the underside of the receiver, ideally
below the tuning knob.
-- Deburr the holes.
-- Blow out the device and make sure no shavings remain inside.
-- Depending on the type of screws available, the two outer holes
may need to be countersunk.
-- Align the small perforated circuit board and screw it in place
from the outside. Ensure the button moves freely and doesn't rub
against anything.
-- Solder the white wire to the remaining free pin. Slide a piece of
heat-shrink tubing over it beforehand and shrink it after soldering.
-- Solder the black wire to any ground point.
-- Pressing the button toggles the tuning steps. If the button is
pressed for more than two seconds, "LOCDIS" will be displayed. This
locks some of the controls. Pressing and holding the button again
returns it to normal operation.
4.
Tuning Step Switch without Pushbutton
The Palstar R30A has a backlight switch for the display that can be
used for the tuning step function. Because this switch is located on
the back of the unit, it is inconvenient to have to constantly reach
behind the unit to change the tuning steps.
-- Connect the free pin (second from the bottom) with a white wire
to the right front contact of the switch. Marked in red.
-- Connect the ground wire with a black wire to the right middle
contact of the switch. Marked in red.
-- The tuning steps can be toggled by switching the switch on and
off. If you hold the switch in the "off" position for more than two
seconds, "LOCDIS" will be displayed. This locks some of the
functions. Switching the switch again and holding it in the "off"
position returns it to normal operation.
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5. Changing the
Antenna Connector to BNC
The PL/SO239 antenna connector on all Palstar RX models has been
a source of complaint since the very first shipment. This connector
was simply too short! Standard-length PL connectors couldn't be
tightened securely because the locking nut almost always interfered
with the end of the connector. The resulting poor contact usually
manifested as weak and noisy reception.
By switching to a BNC connector, this problem is a thing of the past.
Parts List:
BNC connector with 4-hole flange
4 x M3x8mm screws with corresponding nuts
Solder lug with 3mm hole
Procedure:
-- Desolder both wires and remove the old PL/SO239 connector.
-- Position the new BNC connector in the center, ensuring that the
markings on the back are not covered.
-- Mark and center-punch the holes.
-- Drill four 3.5mm holes and deburr them.
-- Blow out the device, ensuring no shavings remain inside.
-- Solder the lug to the ground connection.
-- Screw on the new BNC connector and tighten it securely. Don't
forget to tighten the lug as well.
-- Solder the antenna input wire to the BNC connector.
Conclusion:
With this encoder, tuning the R30A is silky smooth; there's no
wobble when turning the tuning knob. It will likely outlast the
R30A. The selected pulse rate of the encoder is also a perfect match.
Highly recommended!
Changing the antenna
connector to a BNC connector is also worthwhile. Loose connections
will be a thing of the past.
gepostet: 4.4.2026

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